Colourful traditional Mekhelas is synonymous with the North-eastern region of the country. To give a boost to this fashionable piece of clothing, an initiative has begun to take center stage in one of the seven sister states. ‘Mekhela Wednesday’ (MW) is an organic movement that emerged out of conversations one fine day at the Nagaland Civil Secretariat in Kohima. Discussions by working women were started for their shared love for Mekhelas and why it is crucial for the current generation to step it up in making it a popular work wear that is very formal, easy to carry and chic, all at the same time.
Local weavers/Mekhela sellers going out of business with fewer buyers is a thing to worry. Hence, wearing this beautiful attire should not be simply limited to special events and occasions. ‘Wearing Mekhelas can be fun’, says Meripeni Ngullie, who works at the Nagaland Secretariat.
More than just an attire
Mekhela is symbolic of a woman’s courage, strength and resilience. These Naga women have admitted to rediscovering their love for this traditional attire through this fun initiative that started out slowly some months back but was quick to catch people’s attention. It wasn’t possible to start out initially with official diktats, hence it had to be started out as an initiative by a handful of women, who represent the larger composite culture of the state of Nagaland.
The joy of wearing this outfit resonated very well with women of different age groups and resulted in the manifestation of the ‘Mekhela Wednesday’ movement. There’s something about ‘rootedness’ which is at the core of ethnic identity and solidarity and further highlights a strong community spirit at the heart of tribal diversity of Nagaland. This movement has given these women that right platform to embrace who they are and with pride.
Not just one ‘Mekhela’
Although Mekhela is an umbrella term, there are different names, styles and drapes to it. Some of the popular ones are- Puan, Kashan, Eksat, Shingnang, Nejam, Nyeha, Phanek, Mekhela Chador, et al. The best part about Mekhela? One can have it customized as one wishes to and can be easily paired with a shirt/t-shirt/top thus helping people to escape from getting criticized or rather getting cancelled with statements that accuses one of ‘cultural appropriation’. Mekhelas are that liberal and inclusive- truly a beautiful blend of tradition and modernity. And when such extremes combine, this is what makes apparels and cultures sustainable for posterity.
On getting noticed
What started as a fun initiative with about twenty women showing up in Mekhela one fine Wednesday in May’23 has indeed gained traction. The advisor to the Chief Minister, Sh Abu Metha tweeted about Mekhela Wednesday and showered words of appreciation that has been very encouraging. It is the women who have embraced this movement with all their heart and soul and leave no stone unturned to look their best in their respective government departments, schools and colleges.
The advisor to the Chief Minister, Sh Abu Metha tweeted about Mekhela Wednesday and showered words of appreciation that has been very encouraging.
Ms Nguille mentions that there are many more women in different Naga towns apart from Kohima, who are quietly participating in it. The beauty of this movement is- it is voluntary and is a silent revolution, filling the hearts of many with the tenets of empowerment, one Wednesday at a time.
Circular by the skill development
One of the most promising government circulars would be the one issued by the Employment, Skill Development and Entrepreneurship department encouraging its staff to join the movement. The torchbearers of MW have been very overwhelmed by the positive responses over the weeks and extend their extra-ordinary support and solidarity with all their colleagues and regularly post about them on their Instagram page. They say, the encouragement from men have been equally commendable!
From across the border
The story of this movement has piqued the interest of the Chakma community from across the border. Pragna Jui Chakma, from Bangladesh who currently works and lives in Tanzania was extremely happy to read about the MW initiative on the internet. So much so that, she couldn’t stop herself from donning her version of Mekhela during the Durga Puja celebrations in Tanzania last month; a festivity she would be a part of whenever she is in Bangladesh.
The Chakma version is called ‘Pinon-Hadi’, wherein ‘Pinon’ is the wrapper/Mekhela and Hadi is the stole meant for draping the chest like a dupatta. ‘Chabugi’ is the primary design of a ‘Pinon’ and the overall outfit has the classic colour combination of black, navy blue and red.
The Pinon-Hadi is almost regularly worn by the Chakmas, who are a hill tribe residing in parts of South Eastern Bangladesh, viz., Rangamati, Khagrachhari and Bandaran- the three hill districts of the Chittagong Hill Tracts. Their ethnic cousins also reside in the NE India states of Tripura, Mizoram and Arunachal Pradesh and the Rakhine state of Myanmar – neighbours to both India and Bangladesh.
It is fascinating to note that the ‘Garos’ who are essentially a hill community in Meghalaya are a prominent plains tribe in Mymensingh, Bangladesh. Garo women commonly wear the Dakmanda, which is their version of Mekhela. The solidarity of wearing Mekhelas is an indigenous affair and gets exhibited and extended through shared South Asian heritage and ethnicity.
Wearing of these Mekhelas is not only about making a high fashion point, but it’s also about making a political statement. Just like there isn’t one particular national level saree, there can never be one unique Mekhela. There are so many tribes and ethnicities that it’s important to have these myriad of designs laced with unique tribal and ethnic motifs. Women wear Mekhelas not just to give some head turners but to make themselves visible, seen and heard.
Posters released by Mekhela Wednesday every week:
A special feature of Mekhela Wednesday is the MW posters that are released every week. A calligrapher/artist who goes by the handle @m.for.apples voluntarily produces these creative works of art inspired by different tribal Mekhelas. Another artist who goes by the handle @ant.eater_ has also illustrated a couple of posters. Follow @mekhela_Wednesday_ on Instagram to get insights on Northeast India.